{"id":30659,"date":"2019-08-02T10:02:55","date_gmt":"2019-08-02T08:02:55","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cultureroutesinturkey.com\/?p=30659"},"modified":"2019-08-02T13:02:06","modified_gmt":"2019-08-02T11:02:06","slug":"iki-deniz-arasi-istanbulda-yuruyus","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cultureroutesinturkey.com\/tr\/uncategorized-tr\/iki-deniz-arasi-istanbulda-yuruyus\/","title":{"rendered":"\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 – \u0130stanbul’da Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f"},"content":{"rendered":"

\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f rotas\u0131ndan 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nda, T\u00fcrkiye K\u00fclt\u00fcr Rotalar\u0131 Derne\u011fi sayesinde haberimiz oldu. O zamanlarda T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin ilk uzun mesafeli y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f yolu olan Likya Yolu\u2019nu tamam\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmeyi daha yeni tamamlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. \u0130stanbul\u2019da oturdu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in kendi kendimize \u201cAcaba \u0130stanbul etraf\u0131nda da b\u00f6yle y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlar\u0131 var m\u0131d\u0131r?\u201d diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u201c\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131\u201d \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131.<\/p>\n

G\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flamadan \u00f6nce rota hakk\u0131nda biraz ara\u015ft\u0131rma yapt\u0131k. O zaman g\u00f6rd\u00fck ki bu rota esas\u0131nda 14.09.2013-20.10.2013 tarihleri aras\u0131nda d\u00fczenlenen 13. \u0130stanbul Bienali i\u00e7in Serkan Taycan taraf\u0131ndan haz\u0131rlanan bir projeymi\u015f. Bu proje ile \u0130stanbul\u2019un i\u00e7inden ge\u00e7mekte oldu\u011fu kentsel d\u00f6n\u00fc\u015f\u00fcme dikkat \u00e7ekmek, Marmara Denizi\u2019yle Karadeniz aras\u0131nda a\u00e7\u0131lmas\u0131 ve birer milyon n\u00fcfuslu iki kenti bar\u0131nd\u0131rmas\u0131 planlanan \u201c\u00c7\u0131lg\u0131n\u201d Kanal \u0130stanbul projesine yak\u0131ndan bakmak ve y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek deneyimlemek ama\u00e7lanm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

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\u00d6\u011frendi\u011fimiz bu bilgiler, rotaya olan ilgimizi biraz daha artt\u0131rm\u0131\u015ft\u0131 ama y\u00fcr\u00fcyebilmek i\u00e7in elimizde ne bir rehber kitap\/harita ne de rotan\u0131n GPS bilgileri vard\u0131. Ara\u015ft\u0131rmay\u0131 biraz daha derinle\u015ftirdi\u011fimizde bu projenin Atlas Dergisi \u0130stanbul 2013 \u00f6zel say\u0131s\u0131nda tan\u0131t\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 ve o say\u0131 ile birlikte y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ait bir rehber haritan\u0131n da verildi\u011fini ke\u015ffettik. Sahaflarda, internet \u00fczerinde dergiyi arad\u0131k ama haritas\u0131 da olan dergiyi bulamad\u0131k. Yine de dergide yaz\u0131lanlar\u0131 okuyabilmek i\u00e7in haritas\u0131z bir tane ikinci el dergi sat\u0131n ald\u0131k. Daha sonra \u0130stanbul Kad\u0131k\u00f6y’de bir pasaj\u0131n i\u00e7inde \u00fc\u00e7 k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck oday\u0131 kapsayan g\u00fcncel sanat, proje yeri ve ba\u011f\u0131ms\u0131z sanat\u00e7\u0131 yay\u0131nlar\u0131n\u0131n \u00fcretildi\u011fi ve sat\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131 bir kitap\u00e7\u0131 olan Torna\u2019y\u0131 bulduk. Torna\u2019dan hem rehber haritay\u0131 hem de yine Serkan Taycan taraf\u0131ndan rotayla ilgili olarak haz\u0131rlanm\u0131\u015f olan Tumulus isimli kitap\u00e7\u0131\u011f\u0131 sat\u0131n ald\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flamak i\u00e7in en \u00f6nemli kayna\u011f\u0131 edinmi\u015ftik ama g\u00f6r\u00fcnen o ki sadece rehber harita ile kaybolmadan bu g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 tamamlamak m\u00fcmk\u00fcn olmayacakt\u0131.\u00a0 Bu a\u015famada rotan\u0131n GPS koordinatlar\u0131n\u0131 aramaya ba\u015flad\u0131k. Instagram vas\u0131tas\u0131yla g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131n bir d\u00f6nem foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7eken Sezgin K\u0131l\u0131\u00e7\u2019a ula\u015ft\u0131k. Sa\u011f olsun, kendisi t\u00fcm rotan\u0131n GPS bilgilerini bizimle payla\u015ft\u0131. B\u00f6ylece 2016 Eyl\u00fcl ay\u0131 sonunda ba\u015flayan haz\u0131rl\u0131k \u00e7al\u0131\u015fmalar\u0131m\u0131z 2016 Ekim ay\u0131 ortas\u0131 gibi bitti. Art\u0131k y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flamak i\u00e7in \u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fczde herhangi bir engel kalmam\u0131\u015ft\u0131. \u00c7ok bulutlu bir Ekim sabah\u0131 Karadeniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131ndaki Yenik\u00f6y\u2019den y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

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G\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131n en iyi \u00f6zelliklerinden birisi \u0130ETT otob\u00fcsleri ile etaplar\u0131n ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 ve biti\u015f noktalar\u0131na ula\u015fabiliyor olman\u0131z. Dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile ba\u015flang\u0131\u00e7 noktas\u0131na nas\u0131l gidece\u011fim, etap bitince nas\u0131l d\u00f6nece\u011fim gibi hususlarda endi\u015fe etmenize gerek olmuyor. Sadece otob\u00fcs saatlerini \u00f6nceden \u00f6\u011frenmeniz ve kendinizi ona g\u00f6re ayarlaman\u0131z yeterli.<\/p>\n

Rota, i\u015faretlenmi\u015f bir rota. Ancak klasik i\u015faretlenmi\u015f y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f yollar\u0131n\u0131n aksine k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131-beyaz yerine mavi-kavuni\u00e7i renklerinde i\u015faretlenmi\u015f. Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flar ba\u015flamaz Likya Yolu\u2019ndan gelen al\u0131\u015fkanl\u0131kla bu i\u015faretleri aramaya ba\u015flad\u0131k. Amac\u0131m\u0131z Likya Yolu\u2019nda oldu\u011fu gibi m\u00fcmk\u00fcn oldu\u011funca i\u015faretleri takip ederek ilerlemek, \u00e7ok gerekli olmad\u0131k\u00e7a GPS\u2019i a\u00e7mamakt\u0131. Ancak mavi-kavuni\u00e7i i\u015faretlerin daha ilkinin sprey boyalarla karalanm\u0131\u015f oldu\u011funu g\u00f6r\u00fcnce, \u0130stanbul gibi s\u00fcrekli de\u011fi\u015fim halinde olan, bir g\u00fcn\u00fc bir g\u00fcn\u00fcne uymayan ve de i\u00e7inde ya\u015fayanlar\u0131n \u00e7o\u011funun \u201ci\u015faretlenmi\u015f k\u00fclt\u00fcr rotas\u0131\u201d gibi bir kavramdan habersiz oldu\u011fu bir \u015fehirde rota takip edeceksek, bu i\u015faretlerin asla i\u015faretlendikleri gibi kalmayacaklar\u0131n\u0131 bilmemiz gerekti\u011fini \u00f6\u011frendik. \u0130\u015faretleri takip ederek ilerleyemeyece\u011fimiz anla\u015f\u0131ld\u0131ktan sonra GPS\u2019i a\u00e7arak yolun tamam\u0131n\u0131 GPS \u00fczerinden takip ederek y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck.<\/p>\n

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Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn Yenik\u00f6y-Baklal\u0131 etab\u0131 deniz kenar\u0131ndan hafif\u00e7e y\u00fckselerek art\u0131k faal olmayan linyit ocaklar\u0131n\u0131n delik de\u015fik, engebeli ve kurak arazisinden ge\u00e7iyordu. Buralarda y\u00fcr\u00fcrken kendimizi Grand Canyon\u2019un ve Kapadokya\u2019n\u0131n minyat\u00fcr hallerinde y\u00fcr\u00fcr gibi hissettik. Tabii bunu b\u00fcy\u00fck b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc y\u00fcr\u00fcmenize engel olan \u00e7itlerle parsel parsel ayr\u0131lm\u0131\u015f bir Kapadokya manzaras\u0131 olarak d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn. Arada s\u00fcrpriz olarak kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za eski maden \u00e7ukurlar\u0131na dolan sular\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu g\u00f6lc\u00fckler ve sazl\u0131klar \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Ama bu ho\u015f s\u00fcrprizler rotan\u0131n 3.havaalan\u0131 \u015fantiye sahas\u0131na girmesi ile birlikte yerini k\u00e2bus gibi g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclere b\u0131rakt\u0131.<\/p>\n

\u015eantiye sahas\u0131, v\u0131z\u0131r v\u0131z\u0131r kamyonlar\u0131n \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 her yerinde bir faaliyet olan \u00e7ok b\u00fcy\u00fck bir aland\u0131. Her yerde kaya y\u0131\u011f\u0131nlar\u0131, b\u00fcy\u00fck kaz\u0131 \u00e7ukurlar\u0131 ve molozlar vard\u0131. Kamyon \u015fof\u00f6rlerinin merakl\u0131 ve \u201cBurada ne i\u015finiz var?\u201d diye sorgulayan bak\u0131\u015flar\u0131 alt\u0131nda, kamyonlar\u0131n alt\u0131nda kalmamaya ve rotay\u0131 da kaybetmemeye \u00e7al\u0131\u015farak h\u0131zl\u0131 ad\u0131mlarla gri, delik de\u015fik ve toz duman i\u00e7indeki bu b\u00f6lgeden uzakla\u015ft\u0131k. \u00a0Gereklili\u011fi tart\u0131\u015f\u0131l\u0131r bir yat\u0131r\u0131m i\u00e7in do\u011fan\u0131n insan eliyle tahrip etmesine dair \u00fcz\u00fcc\u00fc bu sahneleri bir an \u00f6nce arkam\u0131zda b\u0131rakmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131rken kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u00e7\u0131kan pembe \u00e7i\u00e7ekli funda (p\u00fcren) \u00e7al\u0131l\u0131klar\u0131 bize biraz olsun umut verdi. Fundalar her \u015feye ra\u011fmen en g\u00fczel \u00e7i\u00e7eklerini a\u00e7m\u0131\u015flar ve var olma sava\u015flar\u0131na devam ediyorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n

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\u015eantiye sahas\u0131n\u0131 geride b\u0131rakt\u0131ktan sonra daha ye\u015fillikli ancak seviye olarak \u015fantiye sahas\u0131na g\u00f6re epey a\u015fa\u011f\u0131da kalan bir b\u00f6lgeye geldik. O noktaya kadar yolumuz \u00e7amursuz ve kuru bir zemin \u00fczerinde devam etmi\u015fti. Ancak burada zemin \u0131slakt\u0131. GPS verilerine g\u00f6re do\u011fru yoldayd\u0131k ancak ilerledik\u00e7e \u0131slak zemin, yerini bal\u00e7\u0131k bir zemine b\u0131rakt\u0131. Olmam\u0131z gereken rotay\u0131 takip etmemiz halinde do\u011frudan bir batakl\u0131\u011fa giriyorduk. Rotan\u0131n sa\u011f\u0131na ve soluna ne kadar bakt\u0131ysak da ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131 \u0131slatmadan ge\u00e7ece\u011fimiz bir yer bulamad\u0131k. G\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fc\u015f ye\u015fil otlarla kapl\u0131 bir arazi idi ama ad\u0131m att\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z her yer, esas\u0131nda suya doymu\u015f otlar\u0131n hemen alt\u0131nda bir batakl\u0131k haline gelmi\u015fti. G\u00fczerg\u00e2htan sapmadan \u00e7evresini dolanma imk\u00e2n\u0131 yoktu. Ya oldu\u011fu gibi geri d\u00f6n\u00fcp y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015ften vazge\u00e7ecektik ya da sonu\u00e7lar\u0131na katlanarak ilerlemeye devam edecektik. Biz, en fazla ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z \u0131slan\u0131r diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek ilerlemeye devam ettik ve ilk ad\u0131mda dize, ikinci ad\u0131mda da belimize kadar su\/\u00e7amur kar\u0131\u015f\u0131m\u0131na batt\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Evet, sonunda \u015fantiyeden kurtulmu\u015ftuk ancak bu bize her taraf\u0131ndan \u00e7amur akan ayakkab\u0131 ve pantolonlara mal olmu\u015ftu. Hava kapal\u0131 ancak ya\u011f\u0131\u015fs\u0131z oldu\u011fundan ve de bir haftad\u0131r ya\u011fmur ya\u011fmad\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn kuru bir zeminde devam edece\u011fini d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck. Bu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnce ile yan\u0131m\u0131za herhangi bir yedek ayakkab\u0131 ve pantolon almam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. Dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile belden a\u015fa\u011f\u0131s\u0131 \u00e7amura bulanm\u0131\u015f vaziyette Durusu\u2019ya do\u011fru y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcze devam ettik.<\/p>\n

Yolun geri kalan\u0131nda bir\u00e7ok arsan\u0131n etraf\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7itlerle \u00e7evrili oldu\u011funu fark ettik. Buralarda normalde herhangi bir yerle\u015fim ve yol olmamas\u0131na ra\u011fmen bir\u00e7ok arazi par\u00e7as\u0131n\u0131n bu \u015fekilde i\u015faretlenerek \u00e7evrildi\u011fini g\u00f6rd\u00fck. Esas\u0131nda \u00e7ok da \u015fa\u015f\u0131lacak bir durum yoktu: Bunlar gelece\u011fin villa ve sitelerinin in\u015fa edilece\u011fi arazilerdi. Havaalan\u0131 in\u015faat\u0131n\u0131n bitmesinden sonra buralar\u0131 da etraf\u0131ndaki do\u011fay\u0131 yok edecek olan yeni yerle\u015fim b\u00f6lgeleri olacakt\u0131. \u0130leriki y\u0131llarda \u201cBiz oralar\u0131n yok olmadan \u00f6nceki halini g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck\u201d \u015feklinde kendimizi teselli ederiz diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnerek ve sessizce bu duruma isyan ederek y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcze devam ettik.<\/p>\n

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Durusu\u2019ya vard\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda Belediye\u2019nin ek hizmet binas\u0131ndaki \u00e7e\u015fmede ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131, \u00e7oraplar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 ve pantolonlar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 olabildi\u011fince temizledik. Oradaki g\u00fcvenlik g\u00f6revlileri halimize bak\u0131p nas\u0131l o hale geldi\u011fimize dair bir anlam \u00e7\u0131kartmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlard\u0131. Onlara Yenik\u00f6y\u2019den y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek oraya geldi\u011fimizi anlatt\u0131k ama kuru bir havada nas\u0131l olup da bu \u015fekilde \u0131sland\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 anlayamad\u0131lar. K\u0131sa bir yemek molas\u0131ndan sora yola devam ettik.<\/p>\n

Durusu\u2019dan tekrar yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan sonra hava yava\u015f yava\u015f a\u00e7maya ve g\u00fcne\u015f y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6stermeye ba\u015flad\u0131. Y\u00f6n\u00fcm\u00fcz g\u00fcne\u015fe do\u011fru oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in de \u0131slakl\u0131klar\u0131m\u0131z yava\u015f yava\u015f kuruyordu. Bu arada Yenik\u00f6y civar\u0131nda hi\u00e7 rastlamad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z mavi-kavuni\u00e7i i\u015faretler de ara ara kendilerini g\u00f6steriyordu. Onlar\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fck\u00e7e do\u011fru yolda oldu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in seviniyor ve sanki \u00f6nemli bir tarihi kal\u0131nt\u0131 g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f gibi hemen foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7ekiyorduk.<\/p>\n

Sonunda ilk etab\u0131n son dura\u011f\u0131 olan Baklal\u0131 K\u00f6y\u00fc\u2019ne vard\u0131k. K\u00f6y meydan\u0131nda biraz dinledikten otob\u00fcse binmek \u00fczere Germe\u2019ye gittik. Germe\u2019deki bir bakkaldan o b\u00f6lgenin me\u015fhur manda yo\u011furdundan almay\u0131 ihmal etmedik. Bakkal \u201cYak\u0131nda manda yo\u011furdu da yiyemeyece\u011fimizi, \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc etrafta havaalan\u0131 in\u015faat\u0131 y\u00fcz\u00fcnden mandalar\u0131n girebilece\u011fi g\u00f6llerin art\u0131k kalmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131\u201d s\u00f6yledi. K\u00f6yl\u00fcler manda yeti\u015ftirmekten vazge\u00e7iyorlarm\u0131\u015f. Bu da gereklili\u011fi tart\u0131\u015f\u0131l\u0131r bir yat\u0131r\u0131m\u0131n ilk etapta fark edilmeyen olumsuz etkilerinden sadece birisiydi. Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn bu etab\u0131nda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z batakl\u0131k ge\u00e7i\u015fi nedeniyle, rotan\u0131n di\u011fer etaplar\u0131n\u0131, havalar\u0131n daha s\u0131cak, dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile topra\u011f\u0131n daha kuru olaca\u011f\u0131 zamanlarda y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye karar verdik.<\/p>\n

Ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z karar neticesinde, rotan\u0131n ikinci b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fcn\u00fc yani Baklal\u0131-Sazl\u0131bosna etab\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmek i\u00e7in 2017 Mart ay\u0131n\u0131n sonuna kadar beklemek zorunda kald\u0131k.<\/p>\n

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Bu kez so\u011fuk ve sisli bir Mart sabah\u0131nda Baklal\u0131\u2019dan y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flad\u0131k. \u00d6\u011flene kadar kapal\u0131 hava bize e\u015flik etti. G\u00fczerg\u00e2h son derece ye\u015fil, yerle\u015fimden ve insanlardan uzak bir g\u00fczerg\u00e2ht\u0131. Mavi-kavuni\u00e7i i\u015faretler bazen silik, bazen de canl\u0131 bir \u015fekilde bize yolu g\u00f6stermeye devam ettiler. Tabii yine \u00e7ok seyrek olduklar\u0131 i\u00e7in biz yine GPS verilerine g\u00f6re y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck.<\/p>\n

G\u00fczerg\u00e2h Sazl\u0131dere\u2019yi takip ediyordu. Dursunk\u00f6y\u2019e gelmeden \u00f6nce iki kere dereyi ge\u00e7mek zorunda kald\u0131k. \u0130lk seferde, su seviyesi y\u00fcksek olmasa rahatl\u0131kla ge\u00e7ilecek bir zeminden su seviyesi y\u00fcksek oldu\u011fu i\u00e7in ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kartarak ge\u00e7ebildik. \u0130kinci seferde art\u0131k dere iyice belirginle\u015fmi\u015f bir \u015fekilde ak\u0131yordu ve dereyi ge\u00e7ebilecek herhangi bir k\u00f6pr\u00fc yoktu. Dere boyunca epey bir ileri geri gittikten sonra en az derin oldu\u011funa inand\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z bir noktadan mecburen yine ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kartarak ge\u00e7tik. Esas\u0131nda bu kadar zahmete de\u011fmeyece\u011fini ilerleyen s\u00fcre\u00e7te anlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Etap, yemye\u015fil meralardan ve tarlalardan ge\u00e7iyordu. Ancak sonradan fark etti\u011fimiz \u00fczere, bu tarlalar ve meralar kar\u015f\u0131dan bak\u0131ld\u0131\u011f\u0131nda kuru gibi g\u00f6z\u00fckse bile esas\u0131nda su i\u00e7indeydi. Yani kuru toprakta y\u00fcr\u00fcme plan\u0131m\u0131z bu sefer de ba\u015far\u0131s\u0131zl\u0131\u011fa u\u011frad\u0131. Ger\u00e7i bir \u00f6nceki etaptaki batakl\u0131k s\u00fcrprizini bu sefer ya\u015famad\u0131k ama ayakkab\u0131lar\u0131m\u0131z yine su i\u00e7inde kald\u0131. Dolay\u0131s\u0131 ile dereyi \u0131slanmadan ge\u00e7mek i\u00e7in verdi\u011fimiz \u00e7aba bo\u015fa gitti.<\/p>\n

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Dursunk\u00f6y\u2019e yakla\u015f\u0131rken tarlalarda yiyecek arayan leylekler ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k. B\u00f6ylece senenin ilk leyleklerini g\u00f6rm\u00fc\u015f olduk. Dursunk\u00f6y\u2019de mola verdikten sonra yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda, y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fteki ba\u015fka bir s\u00fcrprizle kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k: Yolda k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131-beyaz yol i\u015faretleri ve de\u011fi\u015fik bir i\u015faretleme etiketi g\u00f6rd\u00fck. Bunlar\u0131 yak\u0131ndan inceledi\u011fimizde i\u015faretlerin Sultanlar Yolu\u2019na ait oldu\u011funu anlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

Sultanlar Yolu, Kanuni Sultan S\u00fcleyman\u2019\u0131n ayak izlerini takip eden bir uluslararas\u0131 uzun menzilli do\u011fa ve tarih y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f parkuruymu\u015f. \u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 ile Sultanlar Yolu Dursunk\u00f6y\u2019de kesi\u015fiyordu. Bu etab\u0131n son dura\u011f\u0131 olan Sazl\u0131bosna ise, Viyana\u2019dan \u0130stanbul\u2019a uzanan Sultanlar Yolu y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f rotas\u0131n\u0131n \u0130stanbul\u2019dan \u00f6nceki son dura\u011f\u0131 idi.<\/p>\n

Dursunk\u00f6y\u2019den sonra Sazl\u0131dere baraj g\u00f6l\u00fc kenar\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe devam ettik. Bu esnada Sultanlar Yolu\u2019nun k\u0131rm\u0131z\u0131-beyaz i\u015faretleri de bize e\u015flik etti. G\u00f6l kenar\u0131ndaki y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fte de zemin \u00e7o\u011funlukla \u0131slakt\u0131. Hatta bir noktada yol tamamen sular alt\u0131nda kald\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7in yolu biraz uzatarak etraf\u0131ndan dolanmak zorunda kald\u0131k. Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f boyunca anemonlar\u0131 ve g\u00f6l so\u011fanlar\u0131n\u0131 \u00e7i\u00e7eklenmi\u015f halleri ile g\u00f6rme \u015fans\u0131n\u0131 yakalad\u0131k. B\u00fct\u00fcn \u0131slakl\u0131\u011f\u0131na ra\u011fmen, t\u00fcm rotan\u0131n en pastoral b\u00f6l\u00fcm\u00fc olan Baklal\u0131-Sazl\u0131bosna etab\u0131, \u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcn en \u00e7ok ho\u015fumuza giden k\u0131sm\u0131 oldu. Burada y\u00fcr\u00fcrken \u0130stanbul\u2019da oldu\u011fumuzu tamamen unuttuk. \u015eehir d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda g\u00fcn\u00fcbirlik bir y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f etkinli\u011fine kat\u0131lm\u0131\u015f hissiyat\u0131 ile bu etab\u0131 Sazl\u0131bosna\u2019da tamamlad\u0131k.<\/p>\n

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Bir sonraki etap olan Sazl\u0131bosna-Yar\u0131mburgaz Ma\u011faras\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fc 2017 Nisan ay\u0131n\u0131n ilk g\u00fcn\u00fcnde yapt\u0131k. Bu sefer g\u00fcne\u015fli bir havada ve tamamen kuru bir zeminde y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck ve hi\u00e7 \u0131slanmad\u0131k. Rotan\u0131n en ilgi \u00e7ekici yeri oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz Yar\u0131mburgaz Ma\u011faras\u0131\u2019n\u0131 g\u00f6rece\u011fimiz i\u00e7in heyecanl\u0131yd\u0131k. Ma\u011faraya varmadan \u00e7ok \u00f6nce antik bir yerle\u015fim yerine benzeyen ta\u015f oca\u011f\u0131ndan ge\u00e7tik. Bu ta\u015f oca\u011f\u0131 ayn\u0131 anda hem bir antik \u015fehri hem de bir f\u00fct\u00fcristik bir film platosunu and\u0131r\u0131yordu. Ta\u015f oca\u011f\u0131ndaki bloklar\u0131n kesitlerinde deniz kabuklar\u0131 vard\u0131. Sanki fosilli bir kaya\u00e7 gibi duruyordu. Sonradan bunun K\u00fcfeki Ta\u015f\u0131 oldu\u011funu \u00f6\u011frendik. K\u00fcfeki Ta\u015f\u0131, deniz<\/a>\u00a0kabuklar\u0131n\u0131n, \u00e7o\u011funlukla da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck istiridye kabuklar\u0131n\u0131n olu\u015fturdu\u011fu bir istiridye kalkeriymi\u015f. En \u00f6nemli \u00f6zelli\u011fi do\u011fadan \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131 anda her t\u00fcrl\u00fc i\u015fleme uygun olmas\u0131 ve kolay i\u015flenmesi; havayla temastan sonra havadaki karbon dioksiti b\u00fcnyesine alarak sertlik, dayan\u0131kl\u0131l\u0131k ve g\u00fc\u00e7 kazanmas\u0131ym\u0131\u015f. \u00a0\u0130stanbul<\/a>\u2019un\u00a0esteti\u011fini olu\u015fturan t\u00fcm tarihi yap\u0131lar\u0131n i\u00e7inde ve d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda bu K\u00fcfeki ta\u015flar\u0131 kullan\u0131lm\u0131\u015f.<\/p>\n

Bu ta\u015f oca\u011f\u0131ndan sonra rotam\u0131z bizi g\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131n en y\u00fcksek noktas\u0131 olan, 160 metredeki Kocabay\u0131r tepesine \u00e7\u0131kard\u0131. Kocabay\u0131r tepesine \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda arkam\u0131zda kalan yolu g\u00f6rmek g\u00fczeldi. Ama ileriye do\u011fru bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda \u0130stanbul\u2019da y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz ger\u00e7e\u011fi ile kar\u015f\u0131la\u015ft\u0131k ister istemez. \u00d6n\u00fcm\u00fczde Arnavutk\u00f6y ve Had\u0131mk\u00f6y\u2019\u00fcn y\u00fckselmekte olan binalar\u0131n\u0131 g\u00f6rd\u00fck. Eskiden ta\u015f\u0131 topra\u011f\u0131 alt\u0131n olan, ama \u015fimdi yeri g\u00f6\u011f\u00fc beton kapl\u0131, her \u015feyi ve herkesi yutan \u015eehr-i \u0130stanbul kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131zdayd\u0131. Sanki biz mitolojik bir hik\u00e2yenin kahramanlar\u0131 olarak ka\u00e7\u0131n\u0131lmaz sonumuza do\u011fru ilerliyorduk. O tepedeyken esen r\u00fczg\u00e2r, bir yandan y\u00fcksekte olman\u0131n getirdi\u011fi \u00f6zg\u00fcrl\u00fck duygusunu kuvvetlendiriyordu, bir yandan da sanki bizi daha fazla ilerlemememiz i\u00e7in uyar\u0131yordu.<\/p>\n

Bu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcncelerle yolumuza devam ettik. \u015eamlar bendinin hemen dibindeki \u015eamlar K\u00f6y\u00fc mola yerimiz oldu. \u015eamlar k\u00f6y\u00fcn\u00fcn kahvesinden otururken bir film ekibinin orada oldu\u011funu fark ettik. Acaba hangi dizi ya da film i\u00e7in buradalar diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken film ekibi bizim geldi\u011fimiz istikamete do\u011fru yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. Sonradan bu ekibin HDP\u2019nin referandum kampanya reklam\u0131n\u0131 Sazl\u0131dere Baraj G\u00f6l\u00fc kenar\u0131nda \u00e7ekti\u011fini \u00f6\u011frendik. Demek ki \u0130stanbul\u2019un bu b\u00f6lgesi halen film platosu olacak kadar el de\u011fmemi\u015f ve orijinal geliyordu yap\u0131mc\u0131lara.<\/p>\n

Molan\u0131n ard\u0131ndan yine baraj g\u00f6l\u00fc kenar\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcyerek Sazl\u0131dere baraj\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131k. Baraj\u0131n etraf\u0131ndaki foto\u011fraf molas\u0131ndan sonra barajdan \u00e7\u0131karak K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck\u00e7ekmece g\u00f6l\u00fcne kadar uzanan bir kanal\u0131n yan\u0131ndan y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fck. Bu arada kanal\u0131n iki yan\u0131ndaki \u00e7arp\u0131k yap\u0131la\u015fma \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc olan Yar\u0131mburgaz, Alt\u0131n\u015fehir ve G\u00fcvercintepe mahallelerinin kanalizasyon sular\u0131n\u0131n bu kanala d\u00f6k\u00fclerek, kanal vas\u0131tas\u0131yla K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck\u00e7ekmece G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne kar\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131 dikkatimizden ka\u00e7mad\u0131. Kanalda harap bir haldeki Osmanl\u0131 k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6r\u00fcnce bir kez daha tarihi kal\u0131nt\u0131lara ne kadar \u00e7ok (!) \u00f6nem verdi\u011fimizi hat\u0131rlayarak yola devam ettik. Yolun sonunda ise Yar\u0131mburgaz Ma\u011faras\u0131\u2019na vard\u0131k. Ma\u011fara 400 bin y\u0131l \u00f6nceye yani Paleolitik devre uzanan tarihiyle \u0130stanbul\u2019un en eski \u00fc\u00e7\u00fcnc\u00fc yerle\u015fim yeriymi\u015f. Ama ne yaz\u0131k ki sit alan\u0131 olmas\u0131na ra\u011fmen harap vaziyetteydi. Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015fe ba\u015flarken rotan\u0131n en ilgi \u00e7ekici yeri oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz ma\u011faradan derin bir hayal k\u0131r\u0131kl\u0131\u011f\u0131 i\u00e7inde ayr\u0131larak bu etab\u0131 da bitirdik.<\/p>\n

\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 rotas\u0131n\u0131n son etab\u0131 olan Yar\u0131mburgaz Ma\u011faras\u0131-Menek\u015fe Plaj\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fc 2017 May\u0131s ay\u0131n\u0131n ortas\u0131nda yapt\u0131k. Ma\u011faradan yola \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131ktan k\u0131sa bir s\u00fcre sonra kendimizi TEM otoyolunun alt\u0131ndan ge\u00e7erken bulduk. G\u00fczel manzaralar hep arkada b\u0131rakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlarda kalm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. Oysa \u015fimdi ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz yer tinercilerin, evsizlerin mek\u00e2n tuttu\u011fu yerler gibiydi. Burada herhangi bir g\u00fczellik bulmak s\u00f6z konusu de\u011fildi. Orada \u00e7ok oyalanmadan kendimizi a\u00e7\u0131kta yer alan patikaya att\u0131k.<\/p>\n

\u00d6n\u00fcm\u00fczde K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck\u00e7ekmece G\u00f6l\u00fc, arkam\u0131zda TEM otoyolu ilerlemeye devam ettik. Az bir s\u00fcre sonra tren yolu k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcne vard\u0131k. Bu k\u00f6pr\u00fcden kar\u015f\u0131ya ge\u00e7mek, k\u00f6pr\u00fcn\u00fcn tam ortas\u0131nda durup foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmek \u00e7ok e\u011flenceliydi. K\u00f6pr\u00fcden sonra bir m\u00fcddet daha demiryolundan devam edip kullan\u0131lmayan banliy\u00f6 tren istasyonlar\u0131ndan ge\u00e7tik. Buralar\u0131 g\u00f6l kenar\u0131ndan \u00f6nce g\u00f6rece\u011fimiz son ye\u015fillikli yerlerdi.<\/p>\n

Rota bizi Halkal\u0131 Tren \u0130stasyonu\u2019nun, K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck\u00e7ekmece N\u00fckleer Ara\u015ft\u0131rma Tesisi\u2019nin ve Halkal\u0131 G\u00fcmr\u00fc\u011f\u00fc\u2019n\u00fcn yan\u0131ndan ge\u00e7irerek K\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck\u00e7ekmece G\u00f6l\u00fc\u2019ne kadar getirdi. G\u00f6rece erken bir saatte g\u00f6l kenar\u0131nda oldu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in g\u00f6l kenar\u0131 nispeten sakindi. Ama g\u00f6l\u00fcn \u00e7evresine bakt\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131zda apartmanlar ve evlerden ba\u015fka bir \u015fey g\u00f6rmedik. Art\u0131k \u015fehrin i\u00e7indeydik. Do\u011fal g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fcler yerini rezidans, apartman, ev, karayolu, araba g\u00f6r\u00fcnt\u00fclerine b\u0131rakm\u0131\u015ft\u0131. G\u00f6l\u00fcn bitiminde klasik d\u00f6nem Osmanl\u0131 k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fc olan Mimar Sinan k\u00f6pr\u00fcs\u00fcnden ge\u00e7erek yola devam ettik. Bir m\u00fcddet sonra yol bizi Menek\u015fe plaj\u0131na ula\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131. B\u00f6ylece Karadeniz k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda ba\u015flayan y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f\u00fcm\u00fcz Marmara Denizi k\u0131y\u0131s\u0131nda sonlanm\u0131\u015f oldu.<\/p>\n

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Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f boyunca ge\u00e7ti\u011fimiz t\u00fcm co\u011frafyay\u0131 bir v\u00fccut, \u0130stanbul \u015fehrini ise bir kanser gibi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fck nedense. Sanki \u015fehir k\u00f6t\u00fcc\u00fcl bir t\u00fcm\u00f6rd\u00fc ve yava\u015f yava\u015f t\u00fcm bedeni ele ge\u00e7iriyordu. Ger\u00e7ekten \u0130stanbul d\u0131\u015f\u0131nda gezdi\u011fimizi d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz anlar da oldu, \u015fehrin tam ortas\u0131nda y\u00fcr\u00fcd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm\u00fcz\u00fc hissetti\u011fimiz anlar da. G\u00fczellikleri g\u00f6r\u00fcp umutland\u0131k, betonla\u015fmay\u0131, pislikleri g\u00f6r\u00fcp karamsarl\u0131\u011fa d\u00fc\u015ft\u00fck. Ama sonunda iyisiyle k\u00f6t\u00fcs\u00fcyle ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m\u0131z \u015fehri de\u011fi\u015fik y\u00f6nleriyle ke\u015ffetmi\u015f olmam\u0131za sevindik.<\/p>\n

Rota tamamen y\u00fcr\u00fcnemez hale gelmeden \u0130stanbul\u2019da ya\u015fayan ya da \u0130stanbul\u2019un farkl\u0131 bir y\u00fcz\u00fcn\u00fc g\u00f6rmek isteyen herkese, \u015fehri bir de bu \u015fekilde deneyimlemelerini ve \u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131\u2019n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmelerini tavsiye ediyoruz.<\/p>\n

Ba\u015fka rotalarda kar\u015f\u0131la\u015fmak \u00fcmidiyle yolunuz a\u00e7\u0131k, mavi-kavuni\u00e7i i\u015faretleriniz hep g\u00f6r\u00fcn\u00fcr olsun\u2026<\/p>\n

Oytun G\u00fcvent\u00fcrk<\/p>\n

Temmuz 2017<\/p>\n

https:\/\/www.instagram.com\/tonyukukoytun\/<\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f rotas\u0131ndan 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nda, T\u00fcrkiye K\u00fclt\u00fcr Rotalar\u0131 Derne\u011fi sayesinde haberimiz oldu. O zamanlarda T\u00fcrkiye\u2019nin ilk uzun mesafeli y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f yolu olan Likya Yolu\u2019nu tamam\u0131n\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmeyi daha yeni tamamlam\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. \u0130stanbul\u2019da oturdu\u011fumuz i\u00e7in kendi kendimize \u201cAcaba \u0130stanbul etraf\u0131nda da b\u00f6yle y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f g\u00fczerg\u00e2hlar\u0131 var m\u0131d\u0131r?\u201d diye d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcn\u00fcrken kar\u015f\u0131m\u0131za \u201c\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131\u201d \u00e7\u0131kt\u0131. G\u00fczerg\u00e2h\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flamadan \u00f6nce…<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":30660,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_monsterinsights_skip_tracking":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_active":false,"_monsterinsights_sitenote_note":"","_monsterinsights_sitenote_category":0},"categories":[98],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\n\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 - \u0130stanbul'da Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f | K\u00fclt\u00fcr Rotalar\u0131 Derne\u011fi<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/cultureroutesinturkey.com\/tr\/uncategorized-tr\/iki-deniz-arasi-istanbulda-yuruyus\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 - \u0130stanbul'da Y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f | K\u00fclt\u00fcr Rotalar\u0131 Derne\u011fi\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"\u0130ki Deniz Aras\u0131 y\u00fcr\u00fcy\u00fc\u015f rotas\u0131ndan 2016 y\u0131l\u0131nda, T\u00fcrkiye K\u00fclt\u00fcr Rotalar\u0131 Derne\u011fi sayesinde haberimiz oldu. 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