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In the castle museum in Bodrum is a huge display from a wreck discovered of Uluburun, a cape close to Kaş on the Lycian Way. Excavated by American underwater archaeologist George Bass, the wreck was a well-preserved freeze-frame of life on a coastal ship of the Bronze Age. The principle cargo was metals – copper and tin…

  There’s something oddly comforting about seeing a waymark when out on a trail. It’s funny to think that a haphazardly piled cairn of stones (to which I’ll often add a pebble silently hoping that the whole thing doesn’t collapse), the ever-varied brushstrokes of painted markings or the directional arrows of a signpost can generate…

If you find yourself in Eastern Turkey, a visit to Ani  is a must. It’s a natural focus for the Sarıkamiş routes and can be visited easily from Kars. In spring, the stone-walled fields in countryside around are covered with yellow purple and blue rectangles of wild flowers. The city was founded as the capital of the…

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