30 years ago, Cennet beach, near Kabak, was the most natural spot in the world. The first time I climbed down the cliffs below Alınca to visit the beach I found only the prints of seagulls and wild cats. No people, no boats, no fireplaces, no litter. The olive groves behind the beach had been abandoned in the 1950’s when an earthquake damaged the path and caused the surface water to disappear underground.
Cennet Beach from the Kabak trail
Last week, with Nihat Tokdil, I walked from Kabak to Cennet and to Kalabantia; together these two beaches make an alternative but longer Lycian Way route from Kabak to Gey. Thanks to Nihat, the route is well-used, well-marked in red-yellow, and we cleared scrub where necessary. However, between Kabak and Cennet, the path has three narrow, steep places where someone with a full backpack could easily fall. There is now no water at all on the route, unless you divert to the campsite behind Cennet (if it’s open). Because of these factors, we decided not to include this route in the Lycian Way book, but we will add it, for security reasons, to the Lycian Way smart-phone app.
Kalabantia – a tiny beach with Byzantine ruins behind
Last year, the Muğla Forestry office tried to bulldoze a road to Cennet beach – because the ancient road (which is registered by the Conservation Commission) would have been damaged, the attempt failed. If they had succeeded, by now Cennet would be under development as a holiday village beach.
Sunset from my camp on the beach
I camped at Cennet on the night of the full moon. This time I was not alone – a few campers had pitched tents and made bonfires on the beach. But we enjoyed the sight of the huge orange disk sliding across the sky and setting behind İnce Burun. In the morning, I explored – the beach was littered with fireplaces and the woods behind with toilet paper. The boats chugged in with more visitors, many of them aiming to enjoy nude sunbathing. We learned that camping on the beach is now forbidden. Unfortunately, the area behind the beach is at high risk from fires, and there is no easy access to extinguish them. If you use this route, please take enough water, don’t light fires and pack out your waste!
Nihat Tokdil, who has put so much effort into maintaining local paths
Kate Clow 1st June 2021
8 Comments
roland caine
October 15, 2021
I’m looking for a 6 day guided walk along the LW from Fethie in April 2022. How could I contact Nihat Tokdi? I suspect he will know the best guides/companies. We don’t want luxury accommodation or nannying, just a knowledgable and enthusiastic guide
Chris06
June 24, 2022
Thanks for tour interesting and precise text. I am a french tourist walking with a backpack, i did not want to take any risk, so i walked from Kabak to cascade point then to Alinca, then i climbed down to Kalabatia and Cennet. I did it slowly so i needed 9 hours including a bath at waterfalls and a long pause with lunch in Alinca first restaurant. It IS a tiring walk specially in the part going down where itvis sometimes tricky and slipping. The Cennet site is fabulous, i feel like After thé world creation since there is no cars nor houses. Still many boats make a stop on the beach so it is not so calme in the afternoon. The family managing the camp site is lovely. Hope they will Nevers bulldozer the road you are talking about or Paradise beach and site will become Hell site…
nogoommethalya
May 21, 2023
Great post, thanks for sharing. شركة تنظيف بالدمام
bursa kompresör
August 9, 2023
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Emre
October 9, 2023
I am completed that route but I should warn you. If you are an beginner(like zero experience) think twice because part of the route have 1-2 climbing parts(its easy technically but its hard to climb with backpack if you are an beginner) and these parts have zero tolerance for a mistake. Also when you completed the climbing part routes going like up and down near the cliff, so you should able to decide “rest or not”(its hard for beginners).
When you reach up the beach there is a camping place(you will see the sign), owner name is Savas, they are very hospitable and welcoming, you will find a great rest at their place 🙂
Do not be fooled by the previous parts of the Lycian Way 🙂 this will be much more challenging than the roads you have already passed.
If you have a any question you can contact with my mail : antevidere@gmail.com
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